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At Forever Home Pet Rescue our mission is to find loving forever homes to homeless, abandoned and neglected pets while providing education and ongoing support to adopters and the community
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***LITTER BOX USE***
Puddles of urine, stains on the carpet, faeces in the bathtub -- many pet owners deal with such nuisances on a daily basis. In fact, litter box issues are the most common behavior problems that occur among cats.
If you find urine on the walls, near windows or doors, or on vertical surfaces, your cat may be marking his territory. Whether male, female, spayed, neutered, or intact, any cat at any age can start spraying urine to do this. The problem may be triggered by other animals in the house or animals your cat sees outside.
If the problem occurs on rugs, laundry, beds, or just outside the litter box, the problem may be the box or its surroundings. Your cat may no longer like where the litter box is located or how it feels, or your cat may have been scared while using it. Or, it could be a combination of these things.
Regardless of what you think the cause may be, take these few steps before throwing in the scooper.
1. GET THE CAT TO THE VET
Urinary tract infections and other medical-related issues are common culprits in litter box issues. Talk to your veterinarian right away to rule out this cause.
2. REMOVE THE SMELL
Cats are attracted to soiling in locations where they smell urine or feces. If the smell is partially removed, the cat will probably be triggered to “refresh” the spot. By completely removing the stain, you will eliminate the trigger to soil there again.
When cleaning, be sure to not use common household cleaners, especially ones containing ammonia. Instead, use specialized enzymatic cleansers, which can be purchased in pet supply stores or online. If the stain is already dry, soak the spot with luke-warm water and blot it as much as possible. Next, treat the area with the commercial enzymatic cleanser, following manufacturer’s instructions. Repeat this process three times.
3. CREATE THE IDEAL KITTY COMMODE
*Location
Make sure the box is easy to find, especially for elderly cats. If your home has multiple levels, provide a box on each level. Additionally, do not place boxes near noisy appliances like washing machines or heating units that may frighten your cat. Avoid moving the box, as many cats do not like change. If you must move the box for some reason, try slowly moving it one foot per day toward the desired location.
*Scent
Avoid scented litters, cleaning with bleach or heavily scented products, and do not spray your box with an air freshener. This may smell great to you, but can be a deterrent to your cat. Instead, scoop the box at least daily and wash with dish detergent weekly.
*The Litter
Avoid litter box liners and large size litter pieces, such as crystals or pellets. Instead, choose soft, fine grain, clumping litter that is unscented. You may want to offer more than one box, each with a different brand of litter, to let your cat choose which type she likes best. Disposable cardboard boxes can be helpful when trying this. Also, slope the litter so it is about 1/2“ deep on one end and about 3” deep on the other. This will help you find the depth of litter your cat prefers. Finally, once you find a litter your cat likes – stick with it! Changing litter brands can upset cats and result in refusal to use the box.
*The Box
Most cats prefer large, uncovered boxes. Others like smaller boxes or covered boxes. Offer your kitty a variety of boxes so they can choose which they like best. If you are using a covered box, make sure the opening doesn’t face the wall so your cat won’t feel trapped. Also, the general rule of paw is to have one more box than the number of cats.
4. CONTACT A PROFESSIONAL
If you have tried all of the above and your litter box blues are not resolved, it is probably time to consult with a professional.
www.americanhumane.org/animals/adoption-pet-care/cat-behavior/litter-box-use.html
Puddles of urine, stains on the carpet, faeces in the bathtub -- many pet owners deal with such nuisances on a daily basis. In fact, litter box issues are the most common behavior problems that occur among cats.
If you find urine on the walls, near windows or doors, or on vertical surfaces, your cat may be marking his territory. Whether male, female, spayed, neutered, or intact, any cat at any age can start spraying urine to do this. The problem may be triggered by other animals in the house or animals your cat sees outside.
If the problem occurs on rugs, laundry, beds, or just outside the litter box, the problem may be the box or its surroundings. Your cat may no longer like where the litter box is located or how it feels, or your cat may have been scared while using it. Or, it could be a combination of these things.
Regardless of what you think the cause may be, take these few steps before throwing in the scooper.
1. GET THE CAT TO THE VET
Urinary tract infections and other medical-related issues are common culprits in litter box issues. Talk to your veterinarian right away to rule out this cause.
2. REMOVE THE SMELL
Cats are attracted to soiling in locations where they smell urine or feces. If the smell is partially removed, the cat will probably be triggered to “refresh” the spot. By completely removing the stain, you will eliminate the trigger to soil there again.
When cleaning, be sure to not use common household cleaners, especially ones containing ammonia. Instead, use specialized enzymatic cleansers, which can be purchased in pet supply stores or online. If the stain is already dry, soak the spot with luke-warm water and blot it as much as possible. Next, treat the area with the commercial enzymatic cleanser, following manufacturer’s instructions. Repeat this process three times.
3. CREATE THE IDEAL KITTY COMMODE
*Location
Make sure the box is easy to find, especially for elderly cats. If your home has multiple levels, provide a box on each level. Additionally, do not place boxes near noisy appliances like washing machines or heating units that may frighten your cat. Avoid moving the box, as many cats do not like change. If you must move the box for some reason, try slowly moving it one foot per day toward the desired location.
*Scent
Avoid scented litters, cleaning with bleach or heavily scented products, and do not spray your box with an air freshener. This may smell great to you, but can be a deterrent to your cat. Instead, scoop the box at least daily and wash with dish detergent weekly.
*The Litter
Avoid litter box liners and large size litter pieces, such as crystals or pellets. Instead, choose soft, fine grain, clumping litter that is unscented. You may want to offer more than one box, each with a different brand of litter, to let your cat choose which type she likes best. Disposable cardboard boxes can be helpful when trying this. Also, slope the litter so it is about 1/2“ deep on one end and about 3” deep on the other. This will help you find the depth of litter your cat prefers. Finally, once you find a litter your cat likes – stick with it! Changing litter brands can upset cats and result in refusal to use the box.
*The Box
Most cats prefer large, uncovered boxes. Others like smaller boxes or covered boxes. Offer your kitty a variety of boxes so they can choose which they like best. If you are using a covered box, make sure the opening doesn’t face the wall so your cat won’t feel trapped. Also, the general rule of paw is to have one more box than the number of cats.
4. CONTACT A PROFESSIONAL
If you have tried all of the above and your litter box blues are not resolved, it is probably time to consult with a professional.
www.americanhumane.org/animals/adoption-pet-care/cat-behavior/litter-box-use.html
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Please share this post and link with all your friends and ask them to vote
Remember what we always say.....”Sharing is Caring”
It only takes a few minutes to fill out your details and vote for Forever Home Pet Rescue Inc
The funds are greatly needed to support the work we do.
Please share this post and link with all your friends and ask them to vote
Remember what we always say.....”Sharing is Caring”
Please vote for Forever Home Pet Rescue Incorporated to share in $50k of grants
MyGivingCircle is giving away $50,000 in grants based on your votes
mygivingcircle.org
***INTRODUCING DOGS TO CATS***
Whether you already have a dog and are considering getting a cat, or vice versa, it is very important to think about their first introduction. By letting a loose cat and an off-leash dog meet each other in an open room for the first time, you are probably setting up both animals to fail. Instead, plan ahead and take your time.
MATCHING CATS & DOGS
*If you’re thinking of getting a cat for your dog or a dog for your cat, it’s important to consider both animals’ personalities. It may be helpful to look for a companion that has already been exposed to the other species in the past.
*If a dog attempts to aggressively chase, pin, pick up or otherwise “manhandle” any cat, it is best to not even consider getting a cat — or at least to proceed with caution. Additionally, a dog who growls, lunges at or obsessively barks at a cat would probably do best in a cat-free environment. Likewise, a cat who growls, swats at, runs from or hides from dogs would probably prefer to not live with a dog.
*If a dog loves chasing things, then a fearful, shy cat who runs away probably wouldn’t be the best choice, as it could trigger the dog to chase. Similarly, an energetic cat who runs and pounces would fall into this same category. A better match here would be a calm, confident cat who will not run (in fear or play).
*If a dog plays roughly, it is best to avoid kittens or elderly cats who can easily be hurt. Instead, stick to playful adults who are interested in play, but are also confident enough to take care of themselves. If a cat is rambunctious or playful, a dog that is playful, but gentle, could be a great option.
*If a dog or cat is elderly, laid back, quiet or anxious, then a calm counterpart would be best. Avoid rambunctious companions who may annoy, frighten or otherwise bother the other pet.
THE INTRODUCTION PROCESS
Regardless of whether you are getting a new cat or a new dog, the first introduction between your current pet and your new pet is a very important part of the process. Here are four steps that can help you ensure a successful meeting:
Step 1: Choose the proper location for the first meeting
*Resident cat to new dog: If you are adopting a dog, you should not take your cat to meet him at a shelter, or other establishment which houses a number of animals for health and safety reasons. Instead, the introduction should take place at home.
*Resident dog to new cat: If you are adopting a cat, do not take your dog into a shelter and expose him to the cats, as this can be highly stressful or traumatic for all of the cats. Also, it is not necessarily a good indicator of how the dog will react at home. Instead, ask the shelter’s adoption counselors whether they have any dog-savvy, confident cats they will allow to meet your dog under controlled conditions. If this is not possible, an alternative would be to have your dog meet a dog-savvy cat who belongs to a friend or relative. As a last resort, you can bring your new kitty home and do an introduction at home.
Step 2: Separate the animals
*Across a few days, rotate which animal has freedom and which is confined to allow each animal plenty of time to investigate the other one’s scent.
*Sometimes the dog should be confined to a crate or another room (or taken to another location if he can’t be left alone) to allow the cat time to roam free and investigate the smell of the dog.
*If the dog obsessively digs at the separation barrier or barks at the cat for more than a day or two, the interaction likely won’t work without proper training. You may need the help of a professional.
*When no one is home, the dog or cat must always be securely confined so unsupervised interactions are not possible.
*Once the dog is calm (or at least not obsessed with the cat) and the cat is calm, eating and using the litter box normally, you can proceed to the next step.
Step 3: Make leashed introductions
*Allow both animals to be in the same room at the same time, but keep the dog securely leashed.
*Continue with this type of introduction until the dog is calm and ignores the cat, and the cat is calm, eating and using the litter box normally.
*If there is any fear or aggression displayed on either animal’s part, stay at step 2 longer.
*Continue indefinitely until both the dog and cat seem happy and relaxed around each other.
*When no one is home, the dog or cat should be securely confined to separate areas so unsupervised interactions are not possible.
Step 4: Allow unsupervised interactions
*Unsupervised time together can occur after the cat and dog have been supervised around each other for a significant period of time (a month or so) and you are positive they will not hurt each other.
TRAINING TIP
If the dog stares at the cat or the door separating the cat, try to distract him and get him to look away with treats, a happy voice or by gently guiding the dog away on a leash. Once the dog is away from the cat, try offering a treat. If he takes it, repeat this process until he is no longer focused on the cat or door.
WARNING SIGNS
*If the dog remains overly focused, does not take his eyes off the cat or the door, completely ignores you or lunges suddenly as soon as the cat moves, this is probably a dangerous match. If you are looking for a dog for your resident cat, try another dog. If this is your dog, you should probably not get him a cat.
*If at any time the dog lunges toward, growls, snaps at or shows any aggression toward a calm, quiet, still cat, this match will probably not work out. The same holds true if a cat attacks a calm, quiet dog. If you are committed to make the relationship work, you will probably need a professional at this point.
*If you are looking for a cat for your dog, and your dog displays questionable behavior around a cat who is growling, hissing and swatting, try again with another, calmer cat. If he continues to display questionable behavior around multiple cats, it is likely he should not live with cats.
*If it is your cat who is growling, hissing or swatting, give the cat a break and try again on another day. You might also need to try a different dog. A cat who continually hisses and growls at all types of dogs will likely not want to live with dogs. Your cat may tolerate a dog, but she probably won’t be happy — which is an unfair situation for her.
*If the cat stops eating, drinking, using the litter box or visiting with family members, she is not happy. You might want to consider finding a better match or contacting a professional animal behaviorist for advice.
www.americanhumane.org/animals/adoption-pet-care/dog-behavior/introducing-dogs-to-cats.html
Whether you already have a dog and are considering getting a cat, or vice versa, it is very important to think about their first introduction. By letting a loose cat and an off-leash dog meet each other in an open room for the first time, you are probably setting up both animals to fail. Instead, plan ahead and take your time.
MATCHING CATS & DOGS
*If you’re thinking of getting a cat for your dog or a dog for your cat, it’s important to consider both animals’ personalities. It may be helpful to look for a companion that has already been exposed to the other species in the past.
*If a dog attempts to aggressively chase, pin, pick up or otherwise “manhandle” any cat, it is best to not even consider getting a cat — or at least to proceed with caution. Additionally, a dog who growls, lunges at or obsessively barks at a cat would probably do best in a cat-free environment. Likewise, a cat who growls, swats at, runs from or hides from dogs would probably prefer to not live with a dog.
*If a dog loves chasing things, then a fearful, shy cat who runs away probably wouldn’t be the best choice, as it could trigger the dog to chase. Similarly, an energetic cat who runs and pounces would fall into this same category. A better match here would be a calm, confident cat who will not run (in fear or play).
*If a dog plays roughly, it is best to avoid kittens or elderly cats who can easily be hurt. Instead, stick to playful adults who are interested in play, but are also confident enough to take care of themselves. If a cat is rambunctious or playful, a dog that is playful, but gentle, could be a great option.
*If a dog or cat is elderly, laid back, quiet or anxious, then a calm counterpart would be best. Avoid rambunctious companions who may annoy, frighten or otherwise bother the other pet.
THE INTRODUCTION PROCESS
Regardless of whether you are getting a new cat or a new dog, the first introduction between your current pet and your new pet is a very important part of the process. Here are four steps that can help you ensure a successful meeting:
Step 1: Choose the proper location for the first meeting
*Resident cat to new dog: If you are adopting a dog, you should not take your cat to meet him at a shelter, or other establishment which houses a number of animals for health and safety reasons. Instead, the introduction should take place at home.
*Resident dog to new cat: If you are adopting a cat, do not take your dog into a shelter and expose him to the cats, as this can be highly stressful or traumatic for all of the cats. Also, it is not necessarily a good indicator of how the dog will react at home. Instead, ask the shelter’s adoption counselors whether they have any dog-savvy, confident cats they will allow to meet your dog under controlled conditions. If this is not possible, an alternative would be to have your dog meet a dog-savvy cat who belongs to a friend or relative. As a last resort, you can bring your new kitty home and do an introduction at home.
Step 2: Separate the animals
*Across a few days, rotate which animal has freedom and which is confined to allow each animal plenty of time to investigate the other one’s scent.
*Sometimes the dog should be confined to a crate or another room (or taken to another location if he can’t be left alone) to allow the cat time to roam free and investigate the smell of the dog.
*If the dog obsessively digs at the separation barrier or barks at the cat for more than a day or two, the interaction likely won’t work without proper training. You may need the help of a professional.
*When no one is home, the dog or cat must always be securely confined so unsupervised interactions are not possible.
*Once the dog is calm (or at least not obsessed with the cat) and the cat is calm, eating and using the litter box normally, you can proceed to the next step.
Step 3: Make leashed introductions
*Allow both animals to be in the same room at the same time, but keep the dog securely leashed.
*Continue with this type of introduction until the dog is calm and ignores the cat, and the cat is calm, eating and using the litter box normally.
*If there is any fear or aggression displayed on either animal’s part, stay at step 2 longer.
*Continue indefinitely until both the dog and cat seem happy and relaxed around each other.
*When no one is home, the dog or cat should be securely confined to separate areas so unsupervised interactions are not possible.
Step 4: Allow unsupervised interactions
*Unsupervised time together can occur after the cat and dog have been supervised around each other for a significant period of time (a month or so) and you are positive they will not hurt each other.
TRAINING TIP
If the dog stares at the cat or the door separating the cat, try to distract him and get him to look away with treats, a happy voice or by gently guiding the dog away on a leash. Once the dog is away from the cat, try offering a treat. If he takes it, repeat this process until he is no longer focused on the cat or door.
WARNING SIGNS
*If the dog remains overly focused, does not take his eyes off the cat or the door, completely ignores you or lunges suddenly as soon as the cat moves, this is probably a dangerous match. If you are looking for a dog for your resident cat, try another dog. If this is your dog, you should probably not get him a cat.
*If at any time the dog lunges toward, growls, snaps at or shows any aggression toward a calm, quiet, still cat, this match will probably not work out. The same holds true if a cat attacks a calm, quiet dog. If you are committed to make the relationship work, you will probably need a professional at this point.
*If you are looking for a cat for your dog, and your dog displays questionable behavior around a cat who is growling, hissing and swatting, try again with another, calmer cat. If he continues to display questionable behavior around multiple cats, it is likely he should not live with cats.
*If it is your cat who is growling, hissing or swatting, give the cat a break and try again on another day. You might also need to try a different dog. A cat who continually hisses and growls at all types of dogs will likely not want to live with dogs. Your cat may tolerate a dog, but she probably won’t be happy — which is an unfair situation for her.
*If the cat stops eating, drinking, using the litter box or visiting with family members, she is not happy. You might want to consider finding a better match or contacting a professional animal behaviorist for advice.
www.americanhumane.org/animals/adoption-pet-care/dog-behavior/introducing-dogs-to-cats.html
***HAPPY PURREVER AFTER***
Brothers Bear & Cooper were born with visual impairment.
They were adopted as kittens and look at them now!!!
Thanks to the love given to them by Mr R & Miss K, Bear and Cooper have grown into healthy, confident, loving and mischievous young adults.
It’s happy endings like this that make our work in rescue all worth it...
Happy Life Bear & Cooper.... xxx
Brothers Bear & Cooper were born with visual impairment.
They were adopted as kittens and look at them now!!!
Thanks to the love given to them by Mr R & Miss K, Bear and Cooper have grown into healthy, confident, loving and mischievous young adults.
It’s happy endings like this that make our work in rescue all worth it...
Happy Life Bear & Cooper.... xxx
